Back in early 2010, I announced the beginning of my open-source “Arduinometer” project, and released the code and schematics to build your own. This year, I’ll be upgrading the Arduinometer (running on the Arduino platform) to the Netduino: running the Microsoft .NET Micro Framework and is also open-source.

The Netduino Board

The Netduino Plus offers on-board LAN as standard, and together with a much richer toolset (the Visual Studio 2010 environment is far superior to the Arduino environment) I am planning to include the following additional features:

  • Support for up to 16 metered devices
  • Compatibility with pulse-output, photoreflective and magnetic counters
  • Web-based administrative interface
  • EEML output (for Pachube, and others etc.)

This project is still very much in the planning phase so I am keen to hear suggestions and your feedback before I get too stuck in. So, if there’s anything you think would be a particularly good idea, please get in touch. If you’d like to get involved a little further and sink your teeth into writing some code, drop me an email or leave a comment on this post and we’ll see about setting you up with access to the repository.

Happy metering!

Apparently, the stats helper monkeys at WordPress mulled over how this blog did in 2010, and produced an overall summary of how it performed during the year. Although reported as ‘healthy’ (I wonder what that means?), it’s clear I need to write more in 2011.

Healthy blog!

The Blog-Health-o-Meter™ reads This blog is on fire!.

Crunchy numbers

Featured image

The average container ship can carry about 4,500 containers. This blog was viewed about 19,000 times in 2010. If each view were a shipping container, my blog would have filled about 4 fully loaded ships.

In 2010, there were (only) 6 new posts, growing the total archive of this blog to 39 posts. There were 12 pictures uploaded, taking up a total of 529kb. That’s about a picture per month. 2011′s new year’s resolution is to triple that figure, making at least three posts per month.

The busiest day of the year was November 30th with 123 views. The most popular post that day was How to build a web connected gas meter with your Arduino.

With this in mind, I’ll be trying to make a few more posts on the Arduinometer project this year, and I’m already working on a version for the Netduino.

Where did they come from?

The top referring sites in 2010 were arduino.cc, jtlog.wordpress.com (thanks, James!), mbed.org, code.google.com, and homesenseproject.com.

Some visitors came searching, mostly for arduino gas meter, phototransistor arduino, arduino traffic light, cny70 arduino, and arduino phototransistor.

Attractions in 2010

These are the posts and pages that got the most views in 2010.

1

How to build a web connected gas meter with your Arduino April 2009
30 comments

2

Reading a gas meter with an Arduino, Part 2 February 2009
2 comments

3

Connecting Windows 7 Media Center to your TV with the Acer Revo R3610 February 2010
11 comments

4

Reading a gas meter with an Arduino, Part 1 February 2009
2 comments

5

How to make your Xbox 360, Windows Home Server, Windows Media Centre and Windows 7 work together seamlessly October 2009
1 comment

Those of you who have played Call of Duty: Black Ops, will join me in rejoicing the sound of a friendly yelling “UAV online!”, and likewise the sinking feeling you get in your stomach upon hearing the doomsday announcement of”Enemy UAV online!”.

I’ve always had somewhat of a fascination when it comes to anything that flies. I’ve had four model helicopters (I can’t fly any of them particularly well) but for me the joy was in building these things first, or taking them to bits when they (inevitably) crashed.

Multiplex EasyStar - our airframe

So it ought not to come as any surprise then that, while playing Black Ops a few weeks ago, my friend and I had a rare moment of mental synchronicity when we both declared: “let’s build one for real!”, and to hell with the fact neither of us had any real clue where to start. But that’s what teh interwebs are for!

Black Ops aside, there are a few distinct angles to this project which make for a really fun time:

  • Building the model: learning how to build a model plane and all necessary mini-skills that go with it
  • Hooking up the avionics: speed controllers, batteries and radio
  • Adding a micro controller and accompanying sensors for autopilot functionality
  • Building a wireless telemetry system and making the “ground station”: mixing physical computing with software systems to build a truly mobile

Project Goal

The plan is to build a radio-controlled model aeroplane that can autonomously navigate several way points and take detailed aerial imagery along the way, purely for recreational purposes. We’ll no doubt figure some way of making some sort of game, too. As a bonus, when we’ve figured out how to do that we’d like to add a live first-person video element to the project so that it’s possible to get a “in cockpit” view in real-time.

As with all crazy ideas, the key to success is planning and there’s been no shortage of that over the Christmas period. The UAV plan will be split into two phases:

  1. Build an aircraft, learn to fly it manually
  2. Equip the plane with an autopilot, build the ground station and voila.

Given that neither of us have any fixed-wing flying experience, we figured it necessary to enlist with a local flying club once we’ve built the plane so we learn the basics from the pro’s and join the British Model Flying Association (which also provide insurance!).

Kit List

After extensive forum research and oogling over product specifications, the final kit list is currently still in development but most of it is currently listed on our Wishpot wishlist. This list gets updated all the time as we substitute parts or buy each item. When the aircraft is finally built I will post the final kit list here.

Airframe and basic electronics

To build a successful aerial imaging platform, the key is having a stable airframe and a large cargo capacity. This therefore requires an aircraft which produces a lot of lift and is built more like a glider than a traditional plane: high-wing designs are in and we’re shooting for reliability over performance.

To this end, we settled on the Multiplex EasyStar Kit which was about £47. The kit includes the basic airframe, a standard motor and all moving parts (prop, servo linkages) but doesn’t include a speed controller, radio TX or RX or any servos.

Following forum advice, we won’t be flying the stock motor or propeller. Instead, we opted for a brushless motor upgrade kit (£79.99) which provides us with an Overlander battery, 30A electronic speed controller and a much more powerful motor with a slightly larger propeller.

Radio

For manual flying (and later, switching between manual/autopilot), we opted for a slightly more professional Futaba 6 channel system operating on 2.4GHz. It’s super light weight receiver (9.8 grams) is perfect, and being on the 2.4GHz spectrum means we won’t have to deal with pesky ‘crystals’ or interferrance from other modellers: it’s digital frequency control means our controller will always control our plane.

Power

On board power will be provided by 1 x Overlander Lithium-Polymer 2200mAh 3 cell battery, putting out 11.1V. This will be split between the ESC and the radio gear, though in time we might investigate running the radio off a dedicated smaller battery.

The fun part: telemtry and autopilot

Making anything do anything by itself isn’t exactly easy, especially if you want it to do it well. For the auto pilot, we’ve chosen to use the open-source Ardupilot project which is essentially a set of hardware shields for use with an Arduino, together with some open-source software.

What I’d like to look into doing though is porting the Arduino version of the software to C#, for running on the Netduino (an Arduino ‘clone’ running the .NET Micro Framework).

Essentially, the Ardupilot requires themorpiles and an inertial measurement unit (or, IMU, for short) and a GPS. Data from these sensors can optionally be transmitted via a separate on-board radio system to a ‘ground station’.

Our model’s sensors include:

  • XY+Z IR Horizon Sensors
  • An EM406 GPS module
  • Airspeed sensors
  • Barometric pressure sensor

Our telemetry system will beam data back to the ground station via long-range Xbee modules. More precisely, 2 x XBee Pro 50mW modules (Series 2.5 with RPSMA antennas) and a couple of interface boards. These modules have an approximate line-of-sight range of 1 mile in ideal conditions, more than enough for our purposes.

Where are we now?

At this time, the basic airframe has been constructed and most of the equipment needed to build a normal manual flyer aeroplane has arrived and been assembled, with exception to the radio at this point.

Next steps are to complete the installation of the radio and servos, construct the final power distribution harness and then go join the model flying club to learn how to fly. In the mean time, there’ll be some tinkering to do in my spare time to actually construct the Ardupilot autopilot and start adding the sensors. More on that lot to follow in future posts…

Have a great new year!

In this post, I will show you how to dismantle your Thomson SpeedTouch TG585 v7 router to allow connection of an external WiFi antenna. This is a very simple process requiring the removal of only four screws.

What you will need

  • 1 x Mini PCI U.FL to RP-SMA Pigtail Cable (~£1.50 each, I bought mine off eBay from this seller).
  • Set of needle-nose pliers
  • Set of mini Philips screwdrivers
  • … The external antenna you want to use! (I purchased this one for £13.99 from Maplin as it has a magnetic base, useful in my particular installation).

Step by step

1. Disconnect the power to your router, and unplug the power adapter from the mains supply.

2. Flip your router over, and remove the four plastic feet/pads from each of the four corners of the router.

3. Underneath the feet are four screws (one underneath each of the pads). Unscrew each one.

4. Lift the router off the table and gently give the base a tap – the grey top section should fall off. That’s the ‘lid’. If it doesn’t come off easily, gently prise it off with a flat head screwdriver; the operative word being gently. It’s not glued or wedged, it just might be a little tight.

5. Turn the unit over so you can see the main board.

Taking special care not to touch any of the solder points or components (especially any capacitors), ground yourself and then remove the antenna wire which is connected to the main board (connector circle below):

91edited

You might find a pair of needle nose pliers may help – but the clip is not particular tight or difficult to remove so just be wary of applying excessive force.

6. Now, unclip the existing ‘non-replaceable’ antenna by pinching the inside of the clip with pliers, while pulling the antenna. This will release the antenna and it should pull-out through the exterior of the case as follows:

93

7. Now, thread your new antenna pigtail cable through the case (where the old antenna used to go) so that the tiny clip is on the inside and the antenna connector (the larger connector) is on the outside. Connect the small end to the main board of the router in the same place you disconnected the old one from.

8. Pop the lid back in to place, turn the unit over and put the screws back in, followed by the sticky feet.

9. Now connect up your external antenna, and you’re all set.

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